I Love Newfoundland!

Come Home
Theme for travel to Newfoundland and Labrador

How can I help you, my love?
Worker at a local grocery store in St John’s NL

In my desire to travel, I tend to seek out faraway destinations and overlook the many extraordinary places here in Canada. If you want to travel, I recommend Newfoundland and Labrador which I had the joy of visiting last summer.

Newfoundlanders- or livyers-* are known for their warm hospitality.  On our road trip, we experienced that hospitality and kindness at every turn.  We were in awe of the extraordinary beauty of the land. The hilly and sometimes mountainous terrain, rugged coastline, and tiny hamlets dotting the coastline are a fine accompaniment to the slower pace of life.  The unvarnished landscape of this island province with its own time zone and inclement weather has shaped Newfoundlanders, strengthening their resilience and resourcefulness. It has likely contributed to a sense of community that thrives and binds people together. For those who come from away, you are likely to encounter forthrightness, honesty, and trust. Your word means a great deal.

Our journey began at Port aux Basques, later devasted by Hurricane Fiona, where we disembarked from the ferry in early evening and drove to Deer Lake. My self-imposed task was to scout the landscape for moose. There are reportedly about 120,000 moose in Newfoundland, most likely to be spotted at dawn and dusk. Fighting a growing sense of apprehension, my moose radar was in top form, knowing we had a two-hour drive ahead through a landscape of trees and rocks and approaching darkness. To my relief, we reached our destination without a moose in sight.

One of our first stops in our travels was Gros Morne, a magical almost mythical place with an astonishing geology and landscape that leaves you in awe. Small communities within this UNESCO Heritage site are worth a visit.

After a too brief time in Gros Morne, we travelled 900 kms to Petty Harbour, a picture postcard of a village, close to St. John’s where our family gathered for a week together. A sense of ease and unhurriedness permeates this delightful village. As one woman told me, why would anyone want to go anywhere when you can be here? Indeed!

Our visit to Newfoundland included daily walks, a drive up the Baccalieu trail, taking in small coastal villages, enjoying great food including fish caught earlier in the day, and conversation with locals.  People are welcoming, generous, and take you as you are.  Life is not easy for everyone in Newfoundland and Labrador. The high cost of food and fuel poses a burden for many, but there is an undeniable connection to the land and to each other.

Newfoundland evokes fine memories:

• Weather is a lived experience and seems to change by the hour.  Fierce and sometimes powerful winds cause waves to batter the coast and can move you- literally.  The weather and land can be unforgiving. Sunshine is always welcomed.
• Great bakeries, local eateries, and cafes are a delight. A downtown favourite of mine is the Rocket Bakery for breakfast or lunch.  So is the Levain Bakery and The Parlour, a quaint café by Bannerman Park.
• The Rooms- a stunningly designed structure which houses the provincial archives, art gallery and museum- is a must see.
• Driving miles without seeing much beyond road, rock, trees, or bog only to be surprised by small communities along the coast. You come to realize how large the province is.
• The numbing cold water of the Atlantic Ocean when we dipped our feet in.
• Scanning the road for moose became a preoccupation. I couldn’t help myself.
• The slower pace of life is a lesson in patience. Few are in a hurry.
• The warmth and familiarity of everyone is a joy.  People take time for conversation, ask you how you are, and wait to hear the answer.

This land is truly a distinct culture that will touch your heart.  I plan to return!

In a time when thoughtfulness and courtesy seem to be in short supply, it is reassuring to know that kindness abounds in everyday encounters with ordinary people. The people of Newfoundland and Labrador display hospitality and generosity of spirit. Their island home is worth a visit. You will feel like you have come home. The pictures tell it much better than I can in words.

*Livyer is an old term describing a long-time resident of Newfoundland and Labrador.